Retinol, retinal and retinoic: making sense of skincare with vitamin A derivatives

Authors

  • Vijayashree Mathad Department of Public Health, VS Aesthetic and Wellness Clinic, Kalaburagi, Karnataka, India
  • Hansini Bhaskaran Department of Dental Aesthetics, Saveetha Dental College, Madhurai, Tamil Nadu, India
  • Shivprasad S. Department of Biochemistry, Gulbarga Institute of Medical Sciences, Kalaburagi, Karnataka, India

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.18203/issn.2455-4529.IntJResDermatol20253396

Keywords:

Retinal, Retinoic, Retinol, Skincare, Vitamin A derivatives

Abstract

Background: Topical retinoids such as retinol, retinal, and retinoic acid are widely used for skin rejuvenation. Understanding their skin absorption and molecular effects through non-invasive methods can optimize their therapeutic use while minimizing adverse effects.

Methods: This study involved human participants who applied commercially available retinol, retinal, and retinoic acid formulations over 12 weeks. All assessments were non-invasive, utilizing high-resolution skin imaging, optical coherence tomography (OCT), and confocal microscopy to monitor changes in skin structure, pigmentation, and elasticity. Skin responses, absorption levels, and molecular activity were inferred from imaging biomarkers and skin parameter measurements, with ethical approval and informed consent obtained.

Results: Data indicated that retinal achieved approximately 25% higher skin penetration compared to retinol (p<0.01). Imaging analyses showed that retinal significantly enhanced skin renewal markers, correlating with a 35% greater reduction in wrinkle depth and a 22% increase in skin elasticity versus retinol. Participants using retinoic acid experienced rapid improvements within 4 weeks but reported higher rates of skin irritation (p<0.01). Overall, retinal demonstrated a favorable balance of efficacy and tolerability based on non-invasive assessments.

Conclusions: Non-invasive imaging and biomarker analysis suggest that retinal is an effective and well-tolerated topical agent for skin rejuvenation, providing superior skin improvements with minimal adverse effects. These findings support the potential of retinal as a preferred retinoid formulation in clinical skincare applications.

Metrics

Metrics Loading ...

References

Zasada M, Budzisz E. Retinoids: active molecules influencing skin structure formation in cosmetic and dermatological treatments. Advan Dermatol Allergol/Postępy Dermatol Alergol. 2019;36(4):392-7. DOI: https://doi.org/10.5114/ada.2019.87443

Singh M, Griffiths CE. The use of retinoids in the treatment of photoaging. Dermatol Ther. 2006;19(5):297-305. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1529-8019.2006.00087.x

Mukherjee S, Date A, Patravale V, Korting HC, Roeder A, Weindl G. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clin Intervent Agi. 2006;1(4):327-48. DOI: https://doi.org/10.2147/ciia.2006.1.4.327

Kang S, Bergfeld W, Gottlieb AB, Hickman J, Humeniuk J, Kempers S, et al. Long-term efficacy and safety of tretinoin emollient cream 0.05% in the treatment of photodamaged facial skin: a two-year, randomized, placebo-controlled trial. Ame J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(4):245-53. DOI: https://doi.org/10.2165/00128071-200506040-00005

Dréno B, Bettoli V, Araviiskaia E, Sanchez Viera, M, Bouloc A. The role of topical retinoids in acne: an evidence-based review. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2014;15(3):187-99.

Darlenski R, Fluhr JW. Influence of skin type, race, sex, and anatomic location on epidermal barrier function. Clin Dermatol. 2012;30(3):269-73. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.clindermatol.2011.08.013

Riahi RR, Bush AE, Cohen PR. Topical retinoids: therapeutic mechanisms in the treatment of photodamaged skin. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2016;17(3):265-76. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s40257-016-0185-5

Babamiri K, Nassab R. Cosmeceuticals: the evidence behind the retinoids. Aesth Surg J. 2010;30(1):74-7. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1177/1090820X09360704

Watson RE, Gibbs NK, Griffiths CE, Sherratt MJ. Damage to skin extracellular matrix induced by UV exposure. Antiox Redox Sign. 2014;21(7):1063-77. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1089/ars.2013.5653

Pechère M, Krischer J, Remondat C, Bertrand C, Trellu L, Saurat JH. Malassezia spp carriage in patients with seborrheic dermatitis. J Dermatol. 1999;26(9):558-61. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1346-8138.1999.tb02048.x

Hernández‐Pérez E, Ibiett EV. Gross and microscopic findings in patients submitted to nonablative full‐face resurfacing using intense pulsed light: A preliminary study. Dermatologic surgery. 2002;28(8):651-5. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1097/00042728-200208000-00001

Tang SC, Yang JH. Dual effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on the skin. Molecules. 2018;23(4):863. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules23040863

Zasada M, Markiewicz A, Drożdż Z, Mosińska P, Erkiert-Polguj A, Budzisz E. Preliminary randomized controlled trial of antiaging effects of l-ascorbic acid applied in combination with no-needle and microneedle mesotherapy. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2019;18(3):843-9. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.12727

Bagatin E, Freitas TH, Rivitti-Machado MC, Ribeiro BM, Nunes S, Rocha MA. Adult female acne: a guide to clinical practice. Anais Brasileiros de Dermatologia. 2014;94(1):62-75. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1590/abd1806-4841.20198203

Kong R, Cui Y, Fisher GJ, Wang X, Chen Y, Schneider LM, et al. A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skin. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2016;15(1):49-57. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.12193

Budamakuntla L, Loganathan E, Suresh DH, Shanmugam S, Suryanarayan S, Dongare A, et al. A Randomised, Open-label, Comparative Study of Tranexamic Acid Microinjections and Tranexamic Acid with Microneedling in Patients with Melasma. J Cutan Aesthet Surg. 2013;6(3):139-43. DOI: https://doi.org/10.4103/0974-2077.118403

Leyden J, Stein-Gold L, Weiss J. Why topical retinoids are mainstay of therapy for acne. Dermatol Ther. 2017;7(3):293-304. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s13555-017-0185-2

Zasada M, Budzisz E. Novel derivatives, nano lipid-based carriers, and combinations to improve chemical instability and skin irritation. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022;21(7):2932-47.

Narda M, Granger C. Efficacy and tolerability of a polyhydroxy acid-based anti-aging night cream: results from a prospective study. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2018;11:123-9.

Sorg O, Antille C, Kaya G, Saurat JH. Retinoids in cosmeceuticals. Dermatol Ther. 2006;19(5):289-2960. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1529-8019.2006.00086.x

Downloads

Published

2025-10-25

How to Cite

Mathad, V., Bhaskaran, H., & S., S. (2025). Retinol, retinal and retinoic: making sense of skincare with vitamin A derivatives . International Journal of Research in Dermatology, 11(6), 511–517. https://doi.org/10.18203/issn.2455-4529.IntJResDermatol20253396

Issue

Section

Original Research Articles